What is it about a city that makes you feel welcome? Here it is,
the middle of summer when the temperatures across the nation are
hovering near 100 degrees and we’re out walking the streets of
Savannah, like it’s nothing. The weather is hot and humid but for
some reason it doesn’t seem to bother us, or the many others who are
out and about.
There’s something magical about Savannah. Centuries-old oak trees,
typical of tropical climates, line the sidewalks and create a canopy
over the streets. The houses or buildings in the historic district
neatly adjoin one another; many sit directly on the sidewalk. Some
showcase a small potted garden on their front porch, a way to add a
splash of color, a touch of individuality and to give the homeowner an
excuse to linger on their stoop, water plants and greet those who pass
by.
Manners and Niceties
Lovely ironwork adorns the city. Much like holiday garland, it can be
found on monuments, fountains, windows and stairways. That detail
readily conveys a message about Savannah. Its residents were and are
prosperous and able to afford the finer things in life. They most
certainly do pay careful attention to detail and as such the proper
things - manners and niceties - are well regarded. Art and
craftsmanship are valued. They are proud of their heritage and will go
to great lengths to assure that history and appearances are well kept,
even though there was a time during the last century when that was not
the case.
The 13th Colony
Much has transpired since the early days when General James Oglethorpe
established the final American colony of Georgia. He would have
traveled up the Savannah River navigating past miles of saltwater
marshes filled with sea grasses and estuaries. And when the tropical
breezes blew, the grasses would have bent creating a gentle ripple. It
only seems right that the Indians who lived here would have named the
river for this natural beauty.
Upon his arrival Oglethorpe met Chief Tomochichi and a relationship
ensued allowing the bluff above the river to be settled. Thanks to
Oglethorpe’s plan, the city was designed with 24 perfectly arranged
squares. Today all but three remain. Ellis Square (Barnard and
St. Julian Streets), just east of present-day City Market is currently
under renovation.
Each of the squares is a miniature garden, many with a monument,
dedicated to an individual with ties to the city, or a fountain, and
frequented by visitors or residents. While walking through the city,
folks may travel a considerable distance, however the squares provide a
pleasing distraction and make the trip seem so much shorter.
When experiencing Savannah for the first time, one of the smartest
things to do is to make your first stop, the visitor center. The
parking lot is huge and inexpensive. The center is housed in the city’s
former railroad passenger shed along with the Savannah History Museum.
The latter offers a movie presentation with an exceptional overview of
the city. Take time to enjoy each of the museum exhibits; women’s
dresses is a must-see. There’s also the famous bench Forrest Gump sat
on during his namesake movie.
Tour the City
A number of the city’s sightseeing companies depart from the visitor
center. A favorite is the green and orange Old Town Trolley
Tours. To get familiar with the historic district, travel the entire
loop first, rather than jumping on and off - there’s time for that
later. Stay on the trolley and come back around to City Market. This is
a perfect stop for lunch and a chance to map out the balance of the day.
Your experience will be as varied as your trolley guide’s
personality. If you want a little entertainment along with the
tour, it’s worthwhile to find an engaging guide. But how you ask?
Pay your admission and then step aboard and see if the driver says
hello and if you can strike up a conversation like, “Where are you all
from?” If you climb aboard and the reaction is minimal, you’ll
most likely be the recipient of a memorized, rhythmic speech - jump off
fast and wait for the next driver. The trolleys come around quickly so
don’t worry. Throughout the day, we encountered a variety of styles.
For the tour, look for a driver with a little character.
City Market - Then and Now
OK, let’s get back to the City Market. On the west end is the wonderful
First African Baptist Church. Overlooking Franklin Square, it was built
by three former slaves, for slaves, in the evenings after their
plantation work was finished. Three fascinating things to know: 1) it
is the oldest continuous black congregation in America, 2) it is the
oldest standing brick church in Georgia and 3) slaves on the
Underground Railroad sought refuge beneath the church. Note the diamond
shaped patterns on the floor when you go inside.
There are a number of restaurants in City Market that offer both indoor
and outdoor dining opportunities, as well as plenty of ice cream and
sugary delights. Seasonally, there’s music in the market’s two
courtyards - just another reason to linger.
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